Scallops & creamy leeks

Paris is only one and a half hours away from the shores of Normandy, so the seafood you buy here is abundant, it´s plentiful, it´s fresh, and so very tasty. It´s been almost two years now that I´ve lived here, still I´m in awe each and every time I go to the market. It always takes me an extra minute or two to admire all the beautiful soles, daurades, mussels, lobsters, clams, cods and St. Pierres before I make my choice - the `harvest` from the sea seems infinite (though I´m well aware it´s not), and mostly my eyes are much larger than my stomach, especially when it come seafood (and cheese, and poultry, and...). Quite often I have crush on a certain recipe that I make all the time for a couple of weeks, and this time of year, it´s impossible to ignore the scallops.

For right now, les St. Jacques sell like hot cakes at the fishmongers´ and seafood stalls. In France, fishing scallops is only permitted between October and May, so this is the best time to enjoy these beautiful creatures of the sea. Whenever I have the opportunity, I love to buy them en coquille, in their shell - not only is it incredibly pretty to look at and a sign of freshness; it´s also a special moment of pleasure to open it up and find that glistening ivory colored "noix" inside (noix actually means walnut, but here it also means the scallop muscle).

And then, once the hoard is recovered, you have the time to imagine what to do with your edible treasures. My answer is, not too much. Scallops pair beautifully with something (bitter)sweet and hearty, making them the perfect match for this season´s silent stars from the vegetable stands: leeks, or if you don´t like them, braised endives. A little bit of white wine, a few dollops of cream,  some crunchy bits of fried raw ham, et voilà,  une petite gourmandise de la mer (a little delight from the sea)!

Scallops with leeks (serves 2 as a light meal or starter):

6-8 scallops with or without corail
2 large leeks, white and very bright green parts only (350 g)
40 g butter
50 ml cream
50 ml white wine
3 slices of raw ham, like ham from Bayonne or Parrma
salt and pepper
a dash of piment d´Espelette
small handful of chopped parsley

To prepare the leeks, cut root and thick green parts (liberally) from the stalks, ending up with roughly 350 g/3/4 pound of `blancs de poireaux`. Slice into 0.5 cm/0.2 inch rondelles and set aside.

In a large non-stick pan over medium to high heat, fry scallops in half the butter for 30 seconds to 1 min on each side. It´s ok when the butter browns slightly, but not too much. Reserve scallops on a plate.  

Reduce heat to medium. Fry leeks, stirring frequently until soft but not browned, 10-12 minutes, gradually adding remaining butter. Season with salt and a dash of black pepper. Deglaze with the white wine, increase heat to high and reduce until liquid is almost fully absorbed, 2-3 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add cream, cover and allow to simmer for 5 min or until  leeks are fully cooked, and slightly sweet. Add scallops to the pan for the last minute or so.

Meanwhile, in another pan, fry ham (finely sliced) until fat is completely rendered and the ham is very crispy. Add a dash of olive oil if necessary.

To serve,  arrange leeks and scallops on a plate, sprinkle with bits of ham, parsley and season with a dash of piment d´Espelette if desired (spice from the Basque region of France, alternatively, use mild ground chili).